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Club Wellcraft Forums • View topic - anyone ever rebed the bow rail - almost finished

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anyone ever rebed the bow rail - almost finished

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anyone ever rebed the bow rail - almost finished

Postby bkcorwin » September 18th, 2012, 3:58 pm

Anyone ever rebed the bowrail on a 290? The one on this boat looks like it got bumped a bit and has some movement at the bases of the stanchions.

There appears to be no access to the back of most of the stanchions?

B
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Re: anyone ever rebed the bow rail?

Postby seabob4 » September 24th, 2012, 2:56 pm

BK,
Does the 290 have coaming bolsters covering the top part of the liner, in other words, where the hull to deck joint might be covered? If so, removing the coaming may give you access to the underside of the stanchions...
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Re: anyone ever rebed the bow rail?

Postby bkcorwin » September 27th, 2012, 2:49 pm

Hi Bob,
I found a pie plate under the port seating unit that should give some access to the back, and I can add more if needed I suppose. In the cabin It looks like I can hide most of the necessary pie plates behind the fold up seat backs. Seems like it will turn out OK!

Boats headed to the yard for some more work before we move into our new slip. The nuts and shafts of the thru hull valves are corroded off on a few, so going to have the yard replace them with new. Then I figure while they are down there, may as well add a second bilge pump (thinking 4k gph rule on its own float switch).

Then just need to service the genset and get the propping sorted out. The boat is pretty overpropped with the 21" sws ii props that came from wellcraft.

B
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Re: anyone ever rebed the bow rail?

Postby bkcorwin » September 30th, 2012, 12:18 am

Hey Bob,
You were right, i finally got down to the boat and started taking interior pieces off. If you remove the small bolster where the inner liner meets the headliner, and peel back the material a bit, you can get access to the forward bolts.

Looks like I am going to be able to get this thing re bed without too much hassle (fingers crossed)


b
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Re: anyone ever rebed the bow rail?

Postby bkcorwin » November 28th, 2012, 2:10 pm

Well, it certainly wasn't without hassle...

I have removed and rebed most of the stanchions. I am trying butyl tape for bedding as was recommended by some sailboaters. If it doesn't work out I'll go back to 4200 or 4000.

What have we learned. In several places wellcraft omitted backing plates and in others they added them. In some places I found fender washers laying around under where they should have gone? Holes through the deck were oversized and filled with sealant to protect the core I am guessing. Or maybe someone just missed with the drill and had to oversize.

From the front, forward two stanchions on both sides are accessible through the anchor locker (this is where I found unused fender washers). Next three are accesible by removing the cushion where the headliner meets the fiberglass inner liner. You can peel back the headliner a bit to gain access but its tight. The port side stanchions had no backing plate just small washers. I added some big thick stainless fender washers and thus had to add some longer bolts.

On the port side, the rear 3 stanchions are accessible either through the access door on the side where the hardtop mounts, or by removing the speakers.

Starboard side, rear 2 can be accessed but 3rd appears blocked by the rigging tube.

Middle two are still being worked on. Port side looks accessible by removing the amplifier and cutting out the cabinet back (oscillating tool to the rescue), and starboard side looks accessible through the cabinet in the head. The back of this cabinet is not solid wood, but simply headliner material. I will likely cut it out and replace with 1/4 starboard.

TIPS:
Forward mounts are through bolts from below. Rear mounts are threaded rods with nuts from below.

Some of the bolt heads and nuts were in recesses in the fiberglass making it so sockets will not grab the bolt head. I needed both a standard 1/2 inch socket and a deep well 1/2 inch socket that I ground down such that the leading edge was sharp ( tapered the body of the socket dramatically).

Check your hydraulic lines. I discovered what appears to be a kinked steering line during this process.


Brian
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Re: anyone ever rebed the bow rail - almost finished

Postby seabob4 » January 5th, 2013, 8:15 pm

Well Brian, you certainly had some fun... :o :o

But you learned quite a bit about your boat, and, unfortunately, quite a bit about some assholes who build boats!!! I mean, if you can see the fender washer that the rigger dropped and can pick it up, he sure as hell could!!!

There are different ways of designing bow rails, my personal fave is to have the first 2 stanchons by the bow pulpit as circular bases using typical t/bolts. The rest I like to be studs out the base of the stanchons, 1/4-20, t/bolted. You won't find many builders who use aluminum backing plates on rails. They'll just let the deck coring serve as the backing plate. Even my T/tops I installed on 220 and 240 CCFs, although t/bolted all the way around (0 lag screws!), used no backing plates...

The kinked steering line? That needs to be replaced...period. Even though it has lasted this long, that is simply because you are lucky. Sorry that the guy who did the backend electrical and rigging didn't pay more attention when he was stuffing the excess hose back to where it was hidden. Almost all the time at the OEM level the steering lines are way to long, so something has to be done with the excess. When pushing the steerings lines back into a recess/hullside/wherever, if the hose moves back into these areas with virtually no resistance, then all is good. Meet some resistance? Start over.
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Re: anyone ever rebed the bow rail - almost finished

Postby bkcorwin » January 5th, 2013, 9:46 pm

I know I need to get that steering line replaced. The sad part is that it looks to be a NIGHTMARE to do.

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Re: anyone ever rebed the bow rail - almost finished

Postby seabob4 » January 6th, 2013, 12:32 am

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